As Chairman of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), Sunil Sethi has been one of the driving forces behind India's fashion industry, playing a pivotal role in establishing India Couture Week as the country's most prestigious couture platform. Year after year, his vision has helped create a stage where India's finest designers showcase the very best of craftsmanship, creativity and luxury. On taking India Couture Week beyond Delhi for the first time and the significance of this year's closing showcase, Mr. Sethi said:
"The Hyundai Inaugural Show at the regal Falaknuma Palace marks a significant milestone for Hyundai India Couture Week as we take the platform beyond Delhi for the first time. Anamika Khanna's work is deeply rooted in craft while constantly pushing creative boundaries, making her the perfect choice for this landmark presentation. We are delighted to begin this new chapter with an out of state fashion show, with a designer whose vision continues to shape the future of Indian couture… We remain grateful for the continued support of Hindustan Unilever and are overjoyed to have internationally recognised FDCI designer Rahul Mishra close this year's edition of Hyundai India Couture Week."
For seven days, 14 of India's most celebrated designers will transform the runway into a spectacle of craftsmanship, presenting collections that are the culmination of months of handwork, artistic vision, and unwavering precision. This year, the showcasing designers are Tarun Tahiliani, JJ Valaya, Falguni Shane Peacock, Rahul Mishra, Arpita Mehta, Aisha Rao, Rimzim Dadu, Rohit Bal, Kunal Rawal, Roseroom by Isha Jajodia, Anamika Khanna, House Of Masaba, Jayanti Reddy, and Dolly J.
If fashion weeks are about trends, couture week is about legacy. It remains the country's most exclusive and prestigious showcase of luxury fashion, a platform where designers reaffirm their creative identities and unveil the pieces that will define conversations for months to come. This is where Indian couture is presented at its grandest, where Indian craftsmanship meet contemporary storytelling under the brightest lights. Beyond the garments lies the industry's biggest proving ground. India Couture Week has long been the runway where careers are made. For designers, a memorable showcase can propel a collection from the atelier to international headlines. For models, a single standout walk can transform an emerging face into the season's most in-demand name, opening doors to campaigns, editorials, and future runways.
Tarun Tahiliani: Rethinking the Couture Showcase
Widely regarded as one of the architects of modern Indian couture, Tarun Tahiliani returns after last year's spectacular presentation, Quintessence, and on the heels of celebrating 30 remarkable years in the industry.
When we asked him if this year's collection had one garment that served as its "final word," his answer revealed a much larger reimagining of how couture should be experienced.
"What we have focused on this year is a two-part presentation within the exhibition. We are showing only 15 garments on live models, who will move through the exhibition over three to four hours wearing the same highly conceptual looks. We've started corseting the body into shapes that feel like armour, but in soft fabrics where every muscle, even the abs, is visible, combining this with beautiful drapes and more conceptual hairstyling.
In the adjacent galleries at Bikaner House, we have nine rooms displaying beautifully embroidered and intricately detailed garments on mannequins within scenographic settings. When models walk back and forth in a traditional runway show, much of the museum-quality embroidery gets lost. Here, visitors can experience every detail at their own pace and truly appreciate the craftsmanship behind each piece."
Tahiliani invites them to slow down rather than asking audiences to catch fleeting moments on a runway; perhaps a fitting philosophy for couture itself.
Image Credits: Outlook Luxe
JJ Valaya: The Craft We Risk Losing Is Patience
With over 33 years in Indian fashion and as a board member of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), JJ Valaya is renowned for his regal aesthetic and meticulous craftsmanship. We asked him whether there was one craft technique in his upcoming collection that he felt was in danger of disappearing. His answer shifted the conversation entirely.
"I don't think I can pick one technique and dramatically claim that I'm saving it from extinction. That wouldn't be entirely honest. What I do worry about is that we're losing patience. Couture takes an astonishing amount of time when it is done properly. You layer things, revisit them, sometimes undo them and start all over again. SIDDI (his collection) has surfaces that have gone through multiple processes before we were finally happy with them. So perhaps, strangely, the endangered craft today is patience itself. Because take time out of couture and, eventually, you're simply left with very expensive clothes."
In an age increasingly driven by speed, Valaya's words serve as a timely reminder that couture's greatest luxury may no longer be embellishment, but time itself.
Image Credits: The Tribune
Dolly J: Memories Become Modern Heirlooms
Couture has always been deeply personal, often rooted in memory as much as technique. Returning after her acclaimed 2024 collection, La Vie En Rose, Dolly J spoke about the emotional threads that continue to shape her work. When asked whether a specific memory or heirloom finds its way into this collection, she reflected:
"It's not a single heirloom that reappears; it's the emotion attached to it. The grace of watching my mother and grandmother dress, and their appreciation for fine craftsmanship, continues to influence my work. In this collection, the Brahma Kamal becomes a contemporary heirloom, expressed through jali work, Kashidakari and handcrafted detailing that honours tradition while looking forward". Words capture what couture has always represented; the ability to preserve emotion through craftsmanship.
Image Credits: Lifestyle Asia Hong Kong
The Week Everyone Is Watching
The return of India Couture Week also marks the return of House of Masaba to the couture runway. The "Queen of Prints," Masaba Gupta returns to her alma mater- the runway, presenting her latest couture offering with a fresh perspective on her signature visual language. This season is equally significant for Arpita Mehta, who will make her much-awaited India Couture Week debut. Celebrated for her contemporary designs, Arpita Mehta's first couture showcase is one of the week's most anticipated moments. Rahul Mishra will return to the Indian runway following another stint from Paris Haute Couture Week. Having cemented his position as one of India's foremost couture voices internationally, all eyes will be on what he brings home this season. As the countdown begins, the industry waits to discover not only what is new, but how Indian couture itself continues to evolve.
Tarun Tahiliani captures that evolution best:
“As studios continue to work on whatever it is they are engaged in, there is an evolution of fit and the techniques they develop. In India, couture has been very heavily embroidery-centric because that is one of the country's greatest skills, and handmade craft is really what couture is all about.”
That, perhaps, is what India Couture Week has always celebrated. Not simply clothes, but the relentless pursuit of excellence.
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As Chairman of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), Sunil Sethi has been one of the driving forces behind India's fashion industry, playing a pivotal role in establishing India Couture Week as the country's most prestigious couture platform. Year after year, his vision has helped create a stage where India's finest designers showcase the very best of craftsmanship, creativity and luxury. On taking India Couture Week beyond Delhi for the first time and the significance of this year's closing showcase, Mr. Sethi said:
"The Hyundai Inaugural Show at the regal Falaknuma Palace marks a significant milestone for Hyundai India Couture Week as we take the platform beyond Delhi for the first time. Anamika Khanna's work is deeply rooted in craft while constantly pushing creative boundaries, making her the perfect choice for this landmark presentation. We are delighted to begin this new chapter with an out of state fashion show, with a designer whose vision continues to shape the future of Indian couture… We remain grateful for the continued support of Hindustan Unilever and are overjoyed to have internationally recognised FDCI designer Rahul Mishra close this year's edition of Hyundai India Couture Week."
For seven days, 14 of India's most celebrated designers will transform the runway into a spectacle of craftsmanship, presenting collections that are the culmination of months of handwork, artistic vision, and unwavering precision. This year, the showcasing designers are Tarun Tahiliani, JJ Valaya, Falguni Shane Peacock, Rahul Mishra, Arpita Mehta, Aisha Rao, Rimzim Dadu, Rohit Bal, Kunal Rawal, Roseroom by Isha Jajodia, Anamika Khanna, House Of Masaba, Jayanti Reddy, and Dolly J.
If fashion weeks are about trends, couture week is about legacy. It remains the country's most exclusive and prestigious showcase of luxury fashion, a platform where designers reaffirm their creative identities and unveil the pieces that will define conversations for months to come. This is where Indian couture is presented at its grandest, where Indian craftsmanship meet contemporary storytelling under the brightest lights. Beyond the garments lies the industry's biggest proving ground. India Couture Week has long been the runway where careers are made. For designers, a memorable showcase can propel a collection from the atelier to international headlines. For models, a single standout walk can transform an emerging face into the season's most in-demand name, opening doors to campaigns, editorials, and future runways.
Tarun Tahiliani: Rethinking the Couture Showcase
Widely regarded as one of the architects of modern Indian couture, Tarun Tahiliani returns after last year's spectacular presentation, Quintessence, and on the heels of celebrating 30 remarkable years in the industry.
When we asked him if this year's collection had one garment that served as its "final word," his answer revealed a much larger reimagining of how couture should be experienced.
"What we have focused on this year is a two-part presentation within the exhibition. We are showing only 15 garments on live models, who will move through the exhibition over three to four hours wearing the same highly conceptual looks. We've started corseting the body into shapes that feel like armour, but in soft fabrics where every muscle, even the abs, is visible, combining this with beautiful drapes and more conceptual hairstyling.
In the adjacent galleries at Bikaner House, we have nine rooms displaying beautifully embroidered and intricately detailed garments on mannequins within scenographic settings. When models walk back and forth in a traditional runway show, much of the museum-quality embroidery gets lost. Here, visitors can experience every detail at their own pace and truly appreciate the craftsmanship behind each piece."
Tahiliani invites them to slow down rather than asking audiences to catch fleeting moments on a runway; perhaps a fitting philosophy for couture itself.
Image Credits: Outlook Luxe
JJ Valaya: The Craft We Risk Losing Is Patience
With over 33 years in Indian fashion and as a board member of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), JJ Valaya is renowned for his regal aesthetic and meticulous craftsmanship. We asked him whether there was one craft technique in his upcoming collection that he felt was in danger of disappearing. His answer shifted the conversation entirely.
"I don't think I can pick one technique and dramatically claim that I'm saving it from extinction. That wouldn't be entirely honest. What I do worry about is that we're losing patience. Couture takes an astonishing amount of time when it is done properly. You layer things, revisit them, sometimes undo them and start all over again. SIDDI (his collection) has surfaces that have gone through multiple processes before we were finally happy with them. So perhaps, strangely, the endangered craft today is patience itself. Because take time out of couture and, eventually, you're simply left with very expensive clothes."
In an age increasingly driven by speed, Valaya's words serve as a timely reminder that couture's greatest luxury may no longer be embellishment, but time itself.
Image Credits: The Tribune
Dolly J: Memories Become Modern Heirlooms
Couture has always been deeply personal, often rooted in memory as much as technique. Returning after her acclaimed 2024 collection, La Vie En Rose, Dolly J spoke about the emotional threads that continue to shape her work. When asked whether a specific memory or heirloom finds its way into this collection, she reflected:
"It's not a single heirloom that reappears; it's the emotion attached to it. The grace of watching my mother and grandmother dress, and their appreciation for fine craftsmanship, continues to influence my work. In this collection, the Brahma Kamal becomes a contemporary heirloom, expressed through jali work, Kashidakari and handcrafted detailing that honours tradition while looking forward". Words capture what couture has always represented; the ability to preserve emotion through craftsmanship.
Image Credits: Lifestyle Asia Hong Kong
The Week Everyone Is Watching
The return of India Couture Week also marks the return of House of Masaba to the couture runway. The "Queen of Prints," Masaba Gupta returns to her alma mater- the runway, presenting her latest couture offering with a fresh perspective on her signature visual language. This season is equally significant for Arpita Mehta, who will make her much-awaited India Couture Week debut. Celebrated for her contemporary designs, Arpita Mehta's first couture showcase is one of the week's most anticipated moments. Rahul Mishra will return to the Indian runway following another stint from Paris Haute Couture Week. Having cemented his position as one of India's foremost couture voices internationally, all eyes will be on what he brings home this season. As the countdown begins, the industry waits to discover not only what is new, but how Indian couture itself continues to evolve.
Tarun Tahiliani captures that evolution best:
“As studios continue to work on whatever it is they are engaged in, there is an evolution of fit and the techniques they develop. In India, couture has been very heavily embroidery-centric because that is one of the country's greatest skills, and handmade craft is really what couture is all about.”
That, perhaps, is what India Couture Week has always celebrated. Not simply clothes, but the relentless pursuit of excellence.
TO BE CONTINUED, FOR SUBSCRIBERS ONLY.
This is where the surface ends and the reporting begins.
The complete piece, the full archive, and access to The French Press Circle. Reporting answerable only to its readers.
Already a subscriber ?
Login
Read these on the house, with our compliments.
A selection from the current issue, open to all readers. Read them in full. The rest is one decision away.